I’ve lived in Portland for almost 20 years and in that time, I’ve seen this city change… a lot. When I first moved to Portland for college, the city was small in comparison to other major cities up and down the West Coast, but over the yeas, Portland has grown and evolved. Now a large city in its own right, there is so much to know if you’re visiting Portland, so as a Portland local, here is a local’s guide to Portland – everything you need to do, see, eat, and know!
The Layout
Portland if broken up into quadrants and then neighborhoods. The Willamette River runs through Portland, breaking it up into the East Side (East of the river) and the West Side (West of the river). Then cutting through the city, East to West, is a long street called Burnside. That breaks up the city further into North and South, so South of Burnside but West of the River is SW where East of the River and South of Burnside is SE. You’ll see SE, NE, NW, and SW everywhere you go through the city or when reading about locations, but that’s the general way we look at the layout of Portland as locals.
My Favorite Areas of Portland
After almost 20 years in Portland, I’ve lived and explored in a lot of areas around the city. Here are my favorite areas of my home city and all the things to do, see, and eat in each area!
NW 21st + 23rd
One of my all time favorite areas, this old part of Portland is gorgeous. Tree lined streets, old Victorian homes, and shops and restaurants galore. Both of these roads run North and South starting at Burnside and there is so much to see here, but above all, this is where some of my favorite restaurants are in Portland!
Eat at:
St. Jack – This is my favorite French spot in Portland with a truly French feel. Sit at the Chef’s counter, sip Rosé and try their Steak Frites.
Matador – For an easy Mexican lunch, Matador can’t be beat. The restaurant is a vibe in itself and everything is delicious.
Mama Bird – This restaurant by Top Chef contestant Gabriel Pascuzzi is one of my all time faves in Portland. Wood fire grilled whole chicken with delicious sides and sauces. In the Summer, their patio is the perfect spot for a warm evening.
Fifty Licks Ice Cream – My favorite ice cream shop in Portland, Fifty Licks has a few locations but I tend to go to this one the most. With both vegan and non-vegan ice cream, this spot is, in my opinion, THE BEST ice cream in Portland. (Insider local tip – skip Salt and Straw. There is always a line and Fifty Licks is better!)
Siri Indian Food – Even though we don’t live in this area anymore, we still drive across town for Siri Indian Food. It’s homey Indian food and whether you get take out or dine in, it’s delicious.
Kung Pow – One of our favorite spots for Chinese food, Kung Pow on NW 21st is a great spot for delicious modern Chinese food.
What to See and Do:
The main attractions in NW are just what you’ll see wandering on foot. The streets are filled with cute shops – think of this as Portland’s Georgetown. One of my favorite spots though in NW, is where you’ll get a gorgeous view of the city. You’ll want to head to this spot on NW Westover Road just above Nob Hill right near the Cambridge Condos, where the views stretch for miles and you’ll get a gorgeous city view (after climbing some stairs).
As you wander the neighborhood, you’ll find ivy covered townhouse, old Victorian homes and quiet tree lined streets. As one of the oldest neighborhoods in Portland, NW is one of my faves.
The East Side
Portland’s East Side encompasses many different neighborhoods and areas, but for our purposes, I’ll combine some of them together. The East Side is known to be a little quirkier than the West Side and definitely has a different feel than Downtown and NW Portland. One thing that the East Side is known for though is the amazing assortment of restaurants. While still walkable, it’s best to drive or use bus transportation around the East Side of Portland as it’s spread out more. When exploring the East Side, there is still so much to do and see, but first, where to eat is always the most important topic.
Eat at:
Kann – This award-winning restaurant by Top Chef contestant Gregory Gourdet is outstanding and easily one of the best restaurants in the city. You’ll need a reservation though and they book out a month ahead so make sure and get one to enjoy this incredible Haitian inspired restaurant.
Horse Brass Pub – Right around the corner from my house, this British Pub is well known among Portland locals. You won’t find the tourists here and it feels like you’re walking right into a pub in London.
Tusk – This high end Mediterranean / Middle Eastern restaurant is one of Portland’s best. You’ll need a reservation for this one but it’s worth it from the food to the interior – everything is incredible.
Laurelhurst Market – One of our go-to spots, this is best for dinner. Everything on the menu is delicious but my favorite is their ribeye steak with a glass of wine.
Bollywood Theater – For a cool vibe and updated Indian food, Bollywood Theater on Division is a must try while in Portland.
Cibo – Our go-to Italian spot in SE Portland, Cibo serves up incredible food. The design and vibe of the restaurant is beautiful too and it’s the perfect spot for a slow dinner.
What to See and Do:
SE Portland is pretty spread out so you’ll want to plan your time here with an itinerary. The Goat Blocks (near SE 12th and Belmont) have lots going on as well as the Central Eastside (near the area where Kann is). Laurelhurst Park is also a great spot for some nature and downtown Hawthorne and Belmont are both great to wander.
Downtown
Portland’s downtown goes from Burnside to the South Waterfront area and spans a decently large area. Most people stay in the Pioneer Courthouse Square are of downtown, but there is so much to see and do in Downtown Portland.
Eat at:
Fogo de Chao – While this is a chain, it’s one of our favorite spots. This Brazilian steakhouse is a fun treat!
Farmer’s Market – We religiously attend the Farmer’s Market on the Park Blocks each Saturday morning to buy food for the week but the main attraction is Enchanted Sun. This Farmer’s Market staple serves the best breakfast burritos in town. Trust me, there will be a line and it’s worth it.
Din Tai Fung – This dumpling chain is one of our favorites and their new location in Pioneer Place mall is a must-stop if you’re in that area!
Cheryl’s on 12th – One of my favorite breakfast spots and their breakfast sandwich here is to die for.
Mother’s – Another of our regular breakfast spots, Mother’s is a Portland institution. Go right when they open – it get’s crowded!
What to See and Do:
Downtown Portland is like any other city – wander around and take it in! Some areas to take note of are the South Park Blocks for tree lined park-filled streets, the Portland Art Museum, and shopping at Pioneer Square Mall.
The Riverfront
Portland’s Riverfront Park is one of the most beautiful parts of the city and well worth a stroll along this area. Just East of Downtown, along the Willamette River, several miles of park and pathways stretch along the River. Rent a bike or just walk along the paths and enjoy this scenic part of the city. This is also where the famous Cherry Blossom trees are in the Springtime, but all year long, this is a beautiful area of the city.
Eat at:
Dough Zone – This dumpling spot at the Riverfront is one of my favorites, both for the food and the river views!
The Pearl District
Once a warehouse district, Portland’s Pearl District is now one of my most expensive neighborhoods in the city. Stretching North of Burnside and East of the 405 freeway, the Pearl District is full of loft-style high rise condo buildings and high end shops. It’s the perfect spot to wander around for a few hours and explore, as well as trying some of the best restaurants in the city.
Eat at:
Cafe Umbria – This coffee shop is my go-to spot in the Pearl. It’s cute and Italian and just all around a great spot for coffee and pastries.
Oven and Shaker – This updated pizza restaurant is a fantastic spot for a casual lunch or dinner. Try their salami pizza with honey!
Piazza Italia – If you want to feel like you’ve been transported to Rome, head to Piazza Italia. This spot is straight out of Italy and delicious.
Shake Shack – While not technically in the Pearl (it’s across the street on Burnside), it’s proximity makes it a great stop for a quick lunch while in the area.
Screen Door – There are two location of this famous Portland spot, but I prefer the Pearl District one. For Southern comfort food, this is your spot.
Andina – One of my favorite restaurants in Portland, this Peruvian restaurant is delicious every time. For a fun treat, try the Inca Cola – a Peruvian soda we lived on while in Peru a few years back.
Lovejoy Bakers – For a casual lunch or afternoon coffee, Lovejoy Bakers is a great spot with delicious food.
What to See and Do:
There is so much to wander and see in the Pearl District, but the best part is the shopping in my opinion. Madewell, Anthropologie, and Reformation all have a home here as well as fun little one off boutiques and places to wander through.
Goose Hollow
As one of the older areas of the city, Goose Hollow sits on hills above Portland and is filled with old homes and tree lined streets. It’s also home to Portland’s famous Rose Test Garden and the Japanese Garden. It’s a great old neighborhood to explore, but if on foot, it’s hilly!
Eat at:
Blue Star – One of Portland’s more famous donut spots (local tip: skip the line at Voodoo Donuts and come here instead!), they have a larger location in Goose Hollow that’s worth stopping by. They also have Vegan donuts that are incredible, so as someone who is dairy free, I always appreciate that!
Mazatlan – A spot that you probably won’t see in any other Portland guide, this old school Mexican restaurant sits across from the Timbers Stadium and is a favorite of ours. It’s not fancy and the food is pretty standard Mexican, but we’ve been going here for 20 years and it’s solid every time.
What to See and Do:
Goose Hollow has a lot to do! From going to a soccer game with the Timbers or the Thorns, to exploring the Rose Test Garden and the Japanese Gardens, this area is full of experiences to see and do!
Outside of Portland
Escape the City
If you want to escape the city and see the surrounding areas, Portland is in a prime location to explore a ton of natural areas nearby. Within an hour of the city, you have access to the coast, the mountains and the Gorge. If you want to head to the Oregon Coast, spend some time in Astoria or Cannon Beach. For the mountains, Mt. Hood is a ski resort just an hour or so outside of the city. For water sports or beautiful scenic views like waterfalls and hiking, head out into the Columbia River Gorge to the East of Portland. You really can’t go wrong no matter which direction you go!
Explore the Small Towns
Portland as a city is beautiful, but we’ve also got some incredibly beautiful small towns surrounding the city as well. 2020 has made many of us want a slower pace of life and has pushed us to explore a few more off the beaten path locations and you can do that on a trip to Portland as well. My favorite little towns to explore near Portland are: Silverton, Mt. Angel, Camas and Cannon Beach.
How to Get Around
We have great public transport in Portland but it’s also very easy to walk around the city. As far as public transport goes, our bus system is great and we also have light-rail (MAX) and a streetcar that will pretty much get you anywhere you need in the Downtown/NW/Pearl areas. We also have Nike Biketown bike shares that you can rent and ride around the city.
From the airport, you can take the MAX light rail into the city center and then go on foot from there which makes it easy to access most of the city.
Where to Stay
Hoxton Portland: I love Hoxton hotels and we are lucky to have one in Portland! It’s a little off the beaten track but super close and easy to get wherever you need to go in Portland. Plus you can’t beat the vibes at Hoxton’s.
Moxy Portland Downtown: If you want to be super centrally located, the Moxy Portland Downtown is your spot. With views for days, this hotel is one of my favorites. It’s right in the center of everything and fairly priced.
