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Tips for Traveling to Siem Reap

April 13, 2014

Siem Reap was a mixed bag for us. On one hand we loved seeing the temples and exploring the area.we had amazing food and the
longer we were there, the more we liked it. But there are definitely things I wish I would have known before going, so here are my tips for visiting the ancient Cambodian city.

I had no idea that the area around Siem Reap is covered in a deep red dirt before we left. I was lucky that I packed dark colors to wear, at least with pants and shorts, but a good tip to be aware of when traveling to Siem Reap and exploring the temples of Angkor Wat and surrounding areas, is that you’ll get very dirty.

My white converse shoes I wore all over were just covered in red dirt and filthy by the end of our trip. They washed out fine when I got home, but it’s something to be aware of so don’t wear anything expensive or light in color. Another tip would be to make sure and bring some sort of shoe bag to pack your shoes home so they don’t get the rest of your clothes in your suitcase dirty too. I always pack my shoes in shoe bags and it ended up really working out well for this trip particularly.

Dark pants were the best option for me (I wore cargos) as they didn’t show too much of the dirt and kept my legs from the bugs and the sun, as well as protecting them from cuts and scrapes as we made our way through the temples.

One of the nice things about how they have the ticketing set up for the temples is that you can buy your Angkor pass the evening before and take in the sunset as part of the package price. We bought 1 day passes ($20 per person) and had our tuk tuk driver take us to buy the pass, then on to Angkor Wat to take in the sunset (after 5pm the night before your pass technically starts but they let us buy ours at 4:30 and we were in the temples before 5). You’re basically getting a 1.5 day pass for the same price which is nice.

Also, keep your pass handy as with every new temple, they’ll ask to see it.

Nick had really wanted to do the sunrise at Angkor Wat as he’d seen some incredible photographs from there, with the temple reflected over the pond that lays in front of it. I was expecting it to be a serene moment, watching the sun come up over this historic temple. Unfortunately it was a mass crowd, pushing and shoving. I was at the very front sitting on the ground as we got there very early, with the water in front of me and there were moments I got really claustrophobic as I looked behind me and saw bodies upon bodies without a real way to get out and no way to go forward.

If we had it to do over again, I would skip the sunrise here and head to one of the other temples. I’ve heard both Bayon and Ta Prohm are beautiful at this time of day and I wish we would have done that instead. Though in the end, it was an experience and I came away with something we can do next time if we go back.

One thing I wasn’t aware of before our trip to Cambodia was the full effect of what the climate would be. To be honest, I was expecting it to be tropical like the rest of SE Asia, but I wasn’t ready for the intense heat and humidity we encountered and it really got the better of me during our time there. If you’re not used to that sort of climate, you really need to be prepared. Drink lots of water, wear loose clothing, wear sunscreen and make sure to take care of yourself. There were times we just wanted to get in the back of a tuk tuk and have them drive us around just to get a breeze and cool off. The humidity especially really got to me and made me physically sick a few times, so be sure to take your time and sit down when you need to and drink lots of water.

We hired a guide that had been recommended through someone we know for our sunrise visit to Angkor Wat and it ended up being a total waste and we let him go early. First off, he left us while the sun was rising as he went to get “coffee” which upset me as we were paying him for his time and he was gone for about an hour. Then it was a hassle trying to find him, we wanted to head on to Ta Prohm and he insisted on walking us around Angkor Wat a bit more. He didn’t tell us anything we couldn’t learn from a guidebook and to be honest, we were pretty annoyed when we finally let him go.

We had a much better time exploring on our own. I would suggest doing research before you go for which spots you particularly want to hit and then map out an agenda. Also remember you won’t be able to explore much throughout the middle part of the day as it’s too hot, so schedule your exploration for the mornings and evenings.

Cambodia uses the American Dollar as their currency and they are pretty picky when it comes to how the bill actually looks and feels. I had heard of this before we left, so I went to my bank before the trip and had them sort through a bunch of dollar bills to get the crispest ones. There were many times I saw it happen on this trip that the Cambodians would ask for another bill if it wasn’t crisp. They won’t accept any dollar bills that have tears or writing or even folded edges, so be aware of that before you go. This happened at both the ticket booth for the Angkor passes to the couple in front of us and at a table next to us at dinner on Pub Street. Make sure you take only crisp dollar bills with you and if you get it before you go, your bank will go through and make sure they only give you crisp ones.

Traveling to Cambodia?

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Where to Go on Your Next Adventure

April 9, 2014

One of the nice things about traveling a lot is that you see so many different types of places: beaches, the tropics, cities and small towns, rainy places and sunny places and you realize very quickly how different each part of the world really is. I know very well how hard it is to pick a place to escape to on your next adventure and with a never-ending list of possibilities, often it’s helpful to narrow down location to what you’re specifically looking for.

I’ve put together a list of some of my favorite places I’ve visited around the world to help you narrow down some possible spots for your next adventure. Whether you are looking for an exotic location filled with souks and color or a small ocean-side escape, you’ll be sure to find what you’re looking for in the following list!

I’ve written about how much I loved Bangkok and if you’re looking for a warm location but would prefer city over beach, this Thai city is the perfect spot, full of temples and culture, roadside markets and delicious street food.

Beautiful little Bushmills in Northern Ireland is exactly how you expect a small Irish town to look. Even though it’s world-famous for whiskey, you’d never know it from wandering the streets of this tiny and quintessential Irish town.

For a small city, Dublin seems to have it all. The vibrancy of the city, the almost electric and inspiring vibe of the streets, the colorful buildings and the many many bridges over the River Liffey make Dublin a fantastic place to escape to.

Hawaii is full of beaches and each Island is unique, but the thing that makes Honolulu so popular is that you get both city and beach. Whether you want to spend the afternoon shopping or laying on the beach, you get both of those things here.

London is one of those places that you’ll never be able to just visit once, for one thing, it’s a huge city and there is no way to see it all in one quick trip. For another, it’s one of those places that there is something around every corner to take in. There is always something more to discover in this beautiful and historic city.

Sometimes the mystique of the Middle Eastern culture just calls to me, the Souks, the incredible food, the ornate architecture and prayer call sounding from the gorgeous mosques all around. If you’re looking for a touch of the exotic, Marrakech is the place to be. Stay in a Riad while there and you’ll get a full dose of what the city is all about.

If I had a lot of extra cash, I’d buy a house on the edges of the Atlantic Ocean in Newport, Rhode Island and use it as a vacation home. That’s how much we fell in love with this ocean-side town when we visited last year. The iconic views, the ocean air, the rocky cliffs and open expanses of ocean, this spot is perfect for a quiet ocean-side retreat.

For a taste of the Mediterranean, you can visit lots of countries in Europe that border the Sea, but none quite measure up to France, for me at least. For an ocean-side escape in the French Riviera, that comes with macarons, croissants and French wine? I’m sold just on that alone, but Nice also boasts terrific shopping, insanely gorgeous views and close proximity to many other small French Riviera towns.

When you’re looking for a city escape, no where else is quite like New York City. The bustling metropolis is the place to go for incredible food, cityscape views and some of the best shopping in the world. Spend an afternoon in Central Park, take in the views of the Manhattan skyline from Brooklyn and you’ll fall in love with this city with each minute that passes.

Paris is one of those cities that’s hard to explain to people that haven’t been there. It’s not just the romantic architecture or the incredible treats all around, Paris is one of those cities that just has a “feeling.” It has an air to it that just seems far beyond the rest, like once you’ve been to Paris, you’ve really been somewhere. For ornate culture, a clean and gorgeous city and you’re own dose of croissants and macarons (because there really is nothing like strolling the banks of the Seine with a treat in hand), Paris has it all.

Someday I’d love to rent an apartment in this quaint Scottish city, wandering around the city and living a simple life. For now though, a visit to this quaint and romantic Scottish city will be sure to have you wanting more. Not only are there gorgeous beaches, ocean side cliff views and romantic city streets full of colorful stone buildings, St. Andrews also has a rich history and is the home of Golf. What more could you want?

I’ve never felt such peace as I did staying at the Oberoi Udaivilas in Udaipur, India. Waking up to look out over Lake Pichola, the mountains rising out of the mist in the distance and greenery all around us. Udaipur is one of the most naturally beautiful places I’ve ever seen and I know we’ll be back again to take in the quiet and serene peace you can find here. It’s also out of the way of the hustle of India’s biggest cities and offers a lovely city center with palaces and culture, without the mass crowds. For a relaxing time in India, this is where to go.

Exploring Siem Reap : Angkor Thom and Pub Street

March 28, 2014

Pub Street
Siem Reap, Cambodia

On our second day exploring Siem Reap, after a very early start to the day to see the sunrise at Angkor Wat, we spent the rest of the afternoon at our hotel, resting and cooling down. About 3 in the afternoon, we headed back out, grabbed a tuk tuk and drove the 25 minutes or so from our hotel to Bayon in the Angkor Thom complex. We spent time wandering around there for a bit, then hired another tuk tuk for $4 to take us the kilometer journey down a very bumpy path into the jungle toward Angkor Thom’s lesser known East Gate. Also a scene location from Tomb Raider, Nick had really wanted to check it out. It was one of my favorite parts of our time in Cambodia, as we stood in the middle of the jungle, just us and our tuk tuk driver, monkeys roaming around and the beautiful old East Gate with its stone face staring down at us. It was one of those moments when you are almost catapulted back in time, imagining what this must have been like all those years ago with the sounds of the jungle echoing around us.

After another very bumpy tuk tuk ride back to Bayon, the sun was falling and we enjoyed the golden hour wandering around a very empty Bayon, which ended up being our very favorite temple of the ones we saw. The faces, the tall towers, it was beyond incredible.

Finally as the sun set, we met our original tuk tuk driver (who had gone and come back to get us) and had him take us to Pub Street in Siem Reap. We enjoyed the flood of a breeze in the back of the tuk tuk after a very humid and hot day and eventually ended up at a street cafe on Pub Street, ordered Cambodian BBQ, spring rolls and coconut milkshakes and had a leisurely last dinner in Cambodia. This meal was one of the best meals I’ve ever had while traveling and I find myself craving it daily since we’ve gotten home. We took in the scene around us, watching the people, enjoying delicious food and talking about our trip. It was such a perfect last evening in Cambodia and we ended on a much higher note than our time there began.

Traveling to Cambodia?

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Exploring Siem Reap : Angkor Wat and Ta Prohm

March 27, 2014

Looking back at our time in Cambodia and as I am writing these recaps, I have a hard time describing my feelings on our time there. On one hand the temples were amazing and totally worth seeing and experiencing, the food was some of our best on the whole trip and we had some very lovely and memorable experiences while there. On the other hand, the heat and humidity really got to me and made it so unbearable at times that it was hard to focus on the positives, our hotel was somewhat problematic (which I’ll touch on in the hotel review when I get to it) and I was also sick at that point in our trip, which didn’t make things any easier. In all honesty, we did really like Cambodia the longer we were there, though I’m not sure it’s a place I’d go back to in the near future, which totally threw me for a loop, because after hearing so many amazing things about it, I thought I’d love it. And maybe that was the issue, maybe my expectations were too high and maybe the combination of that and all of the things mentioned above just got the better of me. I’m still not quite sure how I felt about Cambodia and I think it will take me a while longer to work out exactly how I feel about the country and our time there. Exploring the area of Siem Reap though was really a unique experience, especially seeing the most popular ruins at Angkor Wat and Ta Prohm.

Our last full day in Siem Reap started early at 4 in the morning as we left the hotel to make our way to Angkor Wat to get a place to watch the sunset. This was something Nick had really wanted to do to get a photo of the famous sunrise, and after 2.5 hours of sitting in the dirt crowded by people on all sides, the sun rose and we were somewhat disappointed with a less than spectacular show. Honestly, though, it was interesting to experience, I would recommend going to one of the other temples to see the sun rise, the crowd at Angkor was somewhat overwhelming and I got really claustrophobic toward the end as I was in the very front, with the water at my feet and there was literally about 10 rows of people behind me all crowded in. I finally got up and went back to where there was more space while Nick finished up. I’d recommend seeing Bayon or Ta Prohm at sunrise, something I wish we would have done.

Anyways, we then wandered around Angkor Wat a little more, then headed over to Ta Prohm. Ta Prohm is famous for many of the scenes in Tomb Raider and is overgrown by trees. I wasn’t expecting it to be as big as it was, which kind of threw me off and there is a lot of construction going on there currently to restore it, which kind of ruined the “intimate feel” that you envision. However, it was really interesting to see and walk around because it has such a different feel than the other major temples.

By mid morning it was so warm and humid, and we were exhausted from being up so early, that we retreated back to our hotel, had breakfast and then spent a few hours in our room, just cooling off and resting for a while in the air conditioning.

Another tip if you’re planning on visiting Angkor Wat, we hired a guide for the sunrise visit thinking that he might have some special places to show us and instead, he wasn’t really any help for us that we couldn’t do ourselves and we felt like it was a waste of money in the end. I would recommend just taking in the temples by yourselves and exploring on your own, which we ended up doing later this day (post coming tomorrow) at Bayon and really enjoyed it so much more.

Traveling to Cambodia?

See all of my posts on the country!

A Few Hours in Bangkok before Arriving in Siem Reap

March 26, 2014

Getting back into our day by day trip posts as we made our way from India to SE Asia, we spent most of day 5 of the trip traveling. We started early that day in Udaipur flying on Jet Airways (which was great & I would highly recommend it) to Delhi. After a few hours in Delhi, we boarded our flight to Bangkok. It was a quick 4 hour flight and before we knew it, we were on the ground in Thailand speeding along in the back of a taxi at 7 o’clock at night headed toward the lovely Metropolitan hotel on Sathorn Road.

We arrived at the beautiful hotel, grabbed dinner in their restaurant Nahm (where I indulged in the local favorite of mango and sticky rice) and then headed straight to bed after a long travel day. We woke up early the next morning to head back to the airport to fly Air Asia (would totally recommend as well for a budget airline through Asia) to Siem Reap, Cambodia.

Upon arrival in Siem Reap, our hotel picked us up in a vintage range rover and drove us the 20 minute or so to the hotel. We got to see a great deal of the country on the drive in and a glimpse of the famed Angkor Wat as we drove around it. We arrived at the hotel and because our room wasn’t quite ready yet, we sat down in the restaurant and had a lovely (though expensive, by Cambodian standards) meal of spring rolls, fried rice and noodles. After lunch we checked into our room and rested a while. (I have more to say about this hotel on a few things, not my favorite, though I’ll save that for my hotel review.)

We spent the afternoon unpacking, getting adjusted to the tremendous heat and humidity which we hadn’t had in India or Bangkok and planning our evening ahead. We headed out around 4pm, grabbed a tuk tuk and headed to the ticket center for Angkor Wat to buy our day passes for the following day, which also allows you inside the temples after 5pm the night you buy them for sunset. We grabbed tickets ($20 per person for a 1 day pass + sunset for anyone anticipating going) and jumped back in our tuk tuk and sped off down the road for Angkor.

One of the nice things about the tuk tuks in Cambodia is that when they give you a price for their services, they mean that they’ll stay with you for as long as you need. For example, when we went to the ticket booth, the driver told us $10 which we immediately knew was way too much for the short drive to the temples. But he meant, and explained to us, that $10 would be to take us to the temples, wait until 6pm when they closed and then take us in to Siem Reap to the Night Market and Pub Street, then finally back to the hotel. For a good 4+ hours with us, $10 seemed like a decent amount to us and we agreed. It’s actually kind of nice, not having to wave down a new driver, you just go back to your spot and find your guy. Most of the time he’ll be watching for you anyway and come running and waving his arms when he sees you.

We spent our first night in Cambodia wandering around Angkor Wat at sunset, taking in the falling shadows, the golden light and many areas within the temple where Nick and I were the only people around. It was amazing to me to see how you can climb around inside the temples, walk on the stones and how close you’re allowed to get to the temples. They have stood for so many years and it was a very interesting sight to see them, to experience this place that has such a rich history.

When the sun was setting and 6pm was nearing, we made our way back out the entrance, over the water and found our driver, who then drove us the 15 minutes or so into Siem Reap and dropped us at the Night Market. We wandered around for a while, bought gifts for family back home and a few things for us, haggling as we went. Then we headed across the street at the opening of Pub Street and had Cambodian street noodles at a little cafe on the corner. For 2 plates of delicious street noodles and 2 sodas, I think we paid something like $5. The prices were amazing in Cambodia, everything was low (except food at the hotel.)

We drove back to our hotel in the back of the tuk tuk that night, the night breeze blowing through us, lifting the humidity and watched as the lights of Siem Reap sped by us and off to sleep after our first day in Cambodia, ready to wake up for the sunrise over Angkor the following morning.

Bangkok