During our trip in November to Iceland, I was blown away once again by the beauty of the country. Our very first trip there was in late November and upon our return at that time of year, the more we explored, the more we felt overwhelmed by the brilliance of Winter. While a trip to Iceland is always going to come highly recommended by me any time of the year, Winter is especially beautiful with snow and horses and icy rivers running through the landscape. So after watching this compilation video of Iceland in Winter, if you aren’t ready to book a ticket to this magical place then I don’t know what will convince you!
Tips for Arrival into Iceland
Iceland has become quite the tourist destination in the past few years and it’s crazy how much the island has exploded as more and more people visit. With that said, arrival into Iceland can be a chaotic experience and while the Keflavik Airport where you’ll arrive is trying to update and accommodate the immense influx in visitors, it isn’t quite up to the task yet. You’ll arrive to a crowded airport, unsure of what to do and where to go and waiting in the immense crowds – but I’m here to make all of that easier for your arrival into Iceland with the following advice! So don’t worry a bit and follow the tips below to make everything smoother.
Have your cold weather gear ready for when you land. Often you will get off the plane on the tarmac and get bussed to the terminal meaning you’ll be landing in cold weather most likely and not in a warm airport terminal.
Because the airport is overcrowded, not all planes have gates when you arrive so they’ll often park out on the tarmac and bus you in to the terminal. This means that you’ll be out in the weather immediately once you arrive so if it’s cold outside when you arrive, be sure to have cold weather gear to put on or you’ll be freezing! I recommend having a warm coat and gloves or a hat ready to go for when you land!
If renting a car, have breakfast in the terminal and let the rush die down as everyone arrives all at once.
All the flights from the US arrive within about 20 minutes of each other early in the mornings in Iceland so the airport is a chaotic mess if you’re arriving from the US, it really is best to wait a bit and let the rush pass you by. We like to stop and have breakfast in the terminal (before you go out of baggage claim as there is less available there) and sit and enjoy a cup of coffee and something to eat. It will be early in the morning after all, so take your time in the airport terminal before you head out.
Try to book a car that has in-terminal locations – otherwise plan a solid 30 minute wait for the shuttle bus at peak times.
Some of the car rental companies have in-terminal desks for your car. Others are about a 10 minute shuttle bus ride away and while that might not seem bad, there is one shuttle that handles a ton of people at not very frequent intervals. I always try to book the in-terminal companies, but if you can’t, plan on a solid 30 minute wait for the shuttle at peak times. Also keep in mind you’ll be standing outside waiting for the shuttle, most likely in a line at peak times, and it can get quite cold.
Nothing opens in Rekjavik until 8:30ish so don’t hurry in.
If you’re headed into Reykjavik first, keep in mind that the flights from the US arrive around 6am and even if you wait around the airport a bit and have breakfast, nothing in Reykjavik opens early so take your time.
Most hotels charge for early check in and it’s not always available.
Since a lot of flights arrive early in the morning, some of the larger hotels in Reykjavik will allow you to check in early but for an extra fee and it’s not always available due to occupancy. So you can try, but have a plan of what to do if you can’t check in and have to wait all day.
Headed to Iceland?
The Do’s and Don’ts of Traveling in Iceland
Iceland is a magical place and after our fourth trip there this past year, I feel like I finally have the hang of travel in this incredible country. And while we’ve learned a lot over our four trips to the island of fire and ice, there are some things that I constantly tell people that ask me before going. So I compiled my list of the must do’s and don’ts before you head to the mythical and incredible Iceland!
Do…
Stop to play with horses.
Perhaps my favorite travel experience in Iceland are the incredibly friendly and beautiful Icelandic horses that will come up to you on the side of the road and let you pet them. I love horses and this is always one of my very favorite things to do in Iceland and something not to miss!
Get off the beaten path.
Iceland’s beauty is definitely off the beaten path and while the tourist spots are beautiful too, I’ve always found that our favorites have been the spots that you just stumble upon when no one else is around and you have the views all to yourself. Be sure to get off the beaten path during your visit for the best of Iceland.
Embrace the wildness of the landscape.
Iceland’s raw and desolate landscape is simply stunning and the best description I can muster is that it feels like you truly are on a different planet than Earth. But to really enjoy it, leave your expectations on the plane and really embrace the wildness of the island, the desolate emptiness – that’s when you really enjoy the beauty that awaits you.
Make a plan of where you’re headed, but be flexible.
Always have a plan of where you’re headed in Iceland as you can drive great distances to get to different places and you want to give yourself time, but with that said, always be flexible because things can change in an instant. Crazy freak snowstorm in May? 1 lane gravel road where you have to go way slower than anticipated and looked like a highway on your map? Endless stops for photos that take way more time than you thought? We’ve encountered them all – so be flexible but also be prepared with a plan.
Drive yourself.
On our first trip we hired a private guide to drive us around, but on all our subsequent trips we’ve rented a car and driven ourself. I’d highly recommend the second option – you’ll have so much more flexibility in what you see and where you go. It really is the best if you can drive yourself.
Don’t…
Stay just in Reykjavik.
A lot of tourist just stay in Reykjavik and do a day tour of the Golden Circle which includes the main attractions close to the city. My first advice to anyone going to Iceland is to not JUST do this! The true beauty of Iceland lies far from Reykjavik and the Golden Circle and you’ll want to give yourself time to really see the island and what makes it so stunning.
Underestimate the weather.
I can’t tell you how many times we’ve heard stories of people going to Iceland and saying “Oh I’m great with that type of weather, I grew up in snow.” And then when they get back, they say, “Wow, that weather is no joke.” Icelandic weather is famously unpredictable and can be really intense. Even if you’re used to cold and snow, both in Iceland bring an entirely new perspective on Winter weather. This past November we experienced snow storms that come out of nowhere and close major roads as well as 75 mph winds that quite literally blew us off our feet. And it’s not just the Winter in Iceland that can bring crazy weather, our trips in the Summer have brought insane conditions as well. So don’t underestimate the weather and pack and act accordingly.
Expect world class food.
While I adore Iceland and have been several times and plan to return several more in the future, the food there isn’t super great. And while it’s totally fine and you’ll be able to eat well, don’t expect world class food that’s going to blow you away.
Forget to take in the surrounds.
Iceland is one of those destinations that you really must stop and just take in the beauty around you. It’s an almost spiritual experience and some of my most amazing travel memories have come out of standing in the middle of Iceland without another soul for miles, just taking it all in. Don’t forget to really take in the moment and where you are, because there is literally no other place like Iceland.
Headed to Iceland?
Merry Christmas!
For me, my readers are like my friends and every year at Christmas, I like to post our Christmas cards that are sent to friends and family so that my Land of Marvels family gets to be part of my life too! Thank you for following along on my journey and Happy Holidays to each and every one of you and your families from the bottom of my heart!
I’ll be taking the next week off to enjoy the holidays but I’ll be back with brand new content on January 1st!
2017 in Review
2017 brought a lot of travel for a lot of different reasons. First and foremost, our personal travel this year was really Europe heavy with 5 trips to the continent. Work took us to Hawaii multiple times and family events took us from Southern Oregon to Reno to Virginia this year. We also road tripped a lot this year, from driving through the Alps in Austria to an epic road trip that ended in Yellowstone National Park. We loved places like our return to Austria and our first visit to Stockholm and didn’t love other places as much along the way. This year’s travel was a lot more in our comfort-zone, places we’ve been to and that we feel comfortable but also really refreshing. All in all, I can’t complain about our travel this year and I look forward to the places to come in 2018!
Travel Favorites of 2017
This year our travels took us to a lot of our favorite places as well as some new favorites and introduced us to some incredible spots around the world. We were very Europe and US heavy this year and our travels ended up being a little bit more in our comfort zone than in years previously which in itself offered some different moments and experiences for us than traveling to places where you are totally out of your element. But even in more comfortable settings, we fell in love with a lot of places this year and here are some of my travel favorites of 2017!
Favorite Travel Moment
I think this has to be spending my 31st birthday in Paris, my favorite place in the world. We booked this earlier in the year when I came across a great flight deal and spending a blissful Fall weekend in October in Paris with no plans was pretty magical. We had picnics in the parks, watched the sun set over the Seine and ate at our favorite spots… all in all, it was incredible.
Favorite Reoccurring Travel Moment
We spent a few days in Amsterdam in the Spring and I’m always surprised when we go through the famous Dutch city how much I love it and how much I sort of forget about it. We tend to go through Paris and London a bit more but I love heading back to Amsterdam as well and we enjoyed a few lovely days in the city earlier this year.
Biggest Travel Surprise
In January of this year, we headed to Stockholm for the first time due to a deal on insanely cheap plane tickets. I wasn’t sure of what to expect from the Swedish city as we didn’t love Copenhagen a few years back and I was expecting something similar. All in all, we loved Stockholm! The food, the people, the prices (cheaper than Denmark) and the architecture… we really enjoyed Stockholm and it’s for sure a place we would go back to!
Worst Travel Moment
While we loved said trip above to Stockholm, our travels there and back weren’t super great. On the way, Nick got really sick on the flight there and he was miserable. Then on the way back, I got hit with the flu and a bad cold at once and spent the whole flight home going between shivering and sweating with horrible chills and congestion… all in all, while we loved Stockholm, we didn’t love our travel there and back.
Best Hotel Stay
I think this definitely would be the Hotel Pulitzer in Amsterdam. We loved our stay at this hotel and I think it’s definitely our new go-to while in the city.
Most Emotional Travel Moment
While I usually love this to be a beautiful moment somewhere, this year I think this year my most emotional travel moment was driving around Iceland in the Winter. We encountered some intense wind and snowstorms during our time there and I felt a bit nervous multiple times driving around in the crazy weather there in November. One moment in particular when I was driving in 75mph hour winds around the Vik area and stopped to get out and open my door, I truly thought the door was going to get blown off the hinges because the wind was so strong. I was steering directly into the wind for the majority of our time there and it was definitely tense driving conditions.
Most Beautiful Scenery
One of the places I’ve been wanting to make it to for a long time is Provence in the Summer to see the lavender blooming. So for this category, Provence definitely takes the cake! It was so gorgeous to see fields of purple all around us and to see the incredible scenery of the whole Provence area in Southern France.
Favorite Landscape
For a single landscape, the Palouse area of Eastern Washington was definitely a standout for me this year. I’ve been wanting to make it to this area forever and when we headed to Yellowstone for our road trip in May, we made an effort to go through this insanely beautiful area of the Pacific NW. The rolling hills of green were incredible and I can’t wait to get back to this area.
Favorite Country
I think that while I loved a few different countries this year, like Sweden and Austria, I’d have to give this category to France. We got to explore a lot more of the country this year and made multiple visits which I felt so lucky to do. And while we try to get to Paris each year at some point, this year we really got to take in some of the most beautiful parts of France and enjoy one of our favorite countries so very much!
What I Learned from 2017
About a month ago, I sat down one evening and wrote something for this post today. I wrote how this year brought emotional challenges for me, about how relationships really changed in my life this year and how half way through the year, I found myself a little lost. And while all of that is honest and all of that is worthy of a post in itself, when I came back to it later, it didn’t seem right. You see, a couple weeks ago a family emergency occurred in my life and what I walked away from it with was a changed perspective on how I look at the world, how I live my life and what my hope for the future will be.
I’m not going to go into details about what happened and the events that led to perhaps the most emotionally heavy 24 hours of my life will remain a private matter, but in short, I walked away from it changed. And as cliche as that sounds, it’s profoundly true.
For anyone that’s experienced a deep emotional pain, when as humans we completely break, when we can only take so much, when we experience loss or heartbreak, you’ll realize that in that breaking, in that sadness, it takes hold deep within you. It grabs hold of every part of you and like an anchor, drags you deeper than can breath, holding you under and leaving you gasping for air. Pain is an emotion that perhaps best represents humanity – we’ve all felt a deep emotional pain in one way or another, we’re united in the realization that seeing someone you love in excruciating pain is one of the very worst things to endure.
But in that pain, in the sorrow and sadness that accompany it, the one thing I have realized this year is that there is no way out of the darkness except to go through it, step by step. I’ve realized the true meaning of forgiveness, of an open and enduring heart, of honesty in the face of complete destruction. I’ve realized that kindness is the cornerstone of humanity and that there is no limit to the agility of the human heart. Pain will try to break us, it will try to destroy the humanity within us, but it is also pain that unites us and makes us stronger.
Life isn’t about what you have in your closet or what car you drive, it’s not about how much money is in your bank account or what your job title is. Life, this precious life we all get to live, is about people. It’s about family. It’s about love. And at the end of the day, even in the pain and sadness around us in what seems like a constant flow of destruction, life is still about hope. Without hope, without faith in a better tomorrow, without a strength to fight through, we have nothing.
So at the end of 2017, I’m ending the year embracing hope. I’m embracing kindness. I’m embracing strength and peace and love. I’m embracing the hope of seeing the sunrise tomorrow and the sunset at the end of the day. I’m embracing the idea that humanity is stronger together, that people are inherently kind and that when faced with the darkest of days, we’re strong enough to make it to see the light on the other side.
Driving from Vik to the Golden Circle : Horses and Snowy Roads
While we had planned on heading East on this trip to Iceland and making it up to the Glacier Lagoon at Joksularon, a huge storm was headed in the day we arrived and closed down the road going any farther East than Vik where we were staying. We decided to head back into the Reykjavik area a day earlier than planned and to get out of the crazy wind that we were encountering around the Vik area. And as Icelanders will tell you, you must be flexible in Iceland in the Winter with any travel plans as the roads and situations can become very treacherous very fast.
So we packed up, headed back West earlier than planned and decided to loop through the Golden Circle area which is popular with tourists for our second day’s adventure. It began as a beautiful drive and we made lots of stops along the way at gorgeous vistas and snowy trails, petting horses as we went along and taking in a gorgeous white snowy Iceland. We came upon a field of horses that were super friendly and I spent a bit of time playing with them and frolicking in the soft snow, while Nick flew our drone for a bit to get some beautiful footage for a future video, so stay tuned for that! The Icelandic horses are always one of my favorite parts of our trips there and these 3 were so friendly!
Then upon heading to Gullfoss, we took a turn down a road that we shouldn’t have and spent the next 40 minutes going super slow on a very icy and sketchy road. Shortly after we made a quick stop at Gulfoss, a snowstorm picked up seemingly in a moment and we were facing closed roads and a massive storm right over us. We ended up having to take another route back to Reykjavik and the beautiful white snow suddenly became a very treacherous experience. We ultimately made it to Reykjavik just fine but for anyone traveling to Iceland in the Winter – be ready for crazy weather that changes in an instant!
Once safe in Reykjavik that evening, we had our hearts set on seeing the Northern Lights. And while the scale of seeing them was 2/10 that evening, we decided to try it out anyways and headed to the Grotta Lighthouse on the edge of the city around Midnight. We pulled in to the parking area of the lighthouse and tried to see anything, but when we spotted nothing we turned around and were about to head back to our hotel, when I saw a faint green in the sky and slammed on the breaks. We ended up going back and spending about an hour there and while the lights were super faint in the sky, we did get to see them after all!
If you’re headed on this route, here are a few spots I’d recommend stopping at along the way:
- Hruni area of Arnessysla in the Southern Region of Iceland for beautiful scenery
- Gullfoss Waterfall
- Hveragerdi area for incredible views
- There are tons of stops along side roads in this area that are breathtaking so just go off the beaten path and you’ll be sure to find some stunning spots!
- Grotta Lighthouse for Northern Lights viewing near Reykjavik
Headed to Iceland?
Check out our Iceland Travel Guide in the Land of Marvels Shop for only $5!
Driving from Keflavik to Vik : Snowstorms + Crazy Wind
For this most recent trip to Iceland, we really wanted to explore more of the Eastern Coast which we haven’t had a chance to get to yet on our 3 previous trips. Unfortunately for us, a huge storm closed the road and blocked us off from that area, but we still got to explore a lot of beautiful Iceland in the snow! We started our first day there at Keflavik Airport, arriving in the early morning and picking up our rental car. Heading straight towards Vik, we drove through insane wind (that day gusts reached 75mph) and snow storms that came out of no where. We stopped randomly, took in waterfalls and churches with incredible backdrops, and just all around enjoyed one of our favorite countries!
If you’re headed on this route, here are a few spots I’d recommend stopping at along the way:
- Seljalandsfoss
- Skogafoss
- Reynisfjara Beach
- Reynisdrangar Beach and Viewpoint
- Vik i Myrdal Church and scenic point
Headed to Iceland?
Check out our Iceland Travel Guide in the Land of Marvels Shop for only $5!
Driving in Iceland in the Winter
We’ve been to Iceland several times now and most of those trips we’ve rented a car and driven ourselves around. Most of the time, it’s totally fine and while we did encounter a random snowstorm in a mountain pass in the North of Iceland in May one year, every other time has been well worth having a car. I’ve written a post about the basics of Driving in Iceland but driving in the Winter there is a totally different story! So if you are interested in heading to Iceland in the Winter, here’s all you need to know for driving in the snow and ice of Iceland.
Rent a 4×4 vehicle with Winter tires.
Usually, I try to get the smallest rental car I can find. This time however, I wanted a 4×4 vehicle with a good all wheel drive and Winter tires so that I’d be comfortable driving in the snow and ice. We went through Budget and booked a Ford Edge which we were so happy with. It handled really great in the Winter weather and didn’t have any issues even on some pretty sketchy roads.
Expect the unexpected like crazy strong wind and snow storms that start suddenly.
Iceland is notorious for weather that changes in an instant or for storms that seem otherworldly. And driving in those unexpected instances can be challenging, like 75 miles per hour winds where you have to literally steer into the wind just to go straight or snow storms that start out of the blue and accumulate very quickly. You have to think on your feet driving in the Winter in Iceland and be prepared for the unexpected.
Get the full insurance package.
This is a must in Iceland any time of year but for sure in the Winter. Even though it’s going to cost you more, please please please get the full insurance package with no deductible. I can’t tell you how many times we’ve been returning rental cars there and have the people in front of us dealing with an incident report with the rental car company because a rock flew and hit their wind shield or wind threw a piece of debris at them. With the crazy weather in Iceland, it’s well worth it to protect yourself!
Go slower than the speed limit in bad weather especially in high winds.
The speed limits are posted all through Iceland but the majority of the time in the Winter, you’ll be going less than that. High winds will prohibit you driving very fast as will snow and ice, so go slower and be cautious.
Give yourself plenty of time to stop.
I had a scary situation on our way back to the airport where a round about came up and I couldn’t barely see it in the heavy snow and wind and had to slam on my breaks. Good thing our car handled really well and the Winter tires stopped us from sliding, but when you need to stop give yourself more time than you think.
Check road conditions before you go anywhere.
I’m usually pretty good about this but our second day in Iceland this past trip, we originally wanted to go East but due to a massive storm, all the roads were closed. So we headed inland to the Golden Circle and didn’t think weather in that area would be a problem so I didn’t check the roads. We circled around through Gullfoss and then when we headed back to Reykjavik, a snow storm popped up and closed off some roads so we had to go a little out of way to get back to the city. Long story short – always check the road conditions on Iceland’s road website before you go anywhere!
Be flexible with your plans.
One thing to remember if you’re headed to Iceland in the Winter, be flexible in your plans. You most likely will have to change your plans at some point while there due to weather or availability so keep an open mind and just go with whatever comes your way!
Headed to Iceland?
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